Saturday, August 13, 2005

Thar Desert

So, I get to this really sketchy bus station in Johdpur to catch my ride to Jaisalmer. Before I'm even out of the rickshaw this toothless guy grabs my backpack. It's hard to explain why it's difficult to argue, many factors. I follow the guy around the back of the really sad looking vehicle to a squeaky old hatch in the back. He puts my bag in, demands 10 rupees for carrying it, and I make peace with the idea I may never see it again. The seats onboard are actually not bad. The enviroment is entertaining. Imagine a greyhound bus decorated like one of the indian joints on 6th. street. Lights, music...The ride is 5 hot hours. To my surprise I am the only tourist on the bus. Jaisalmer is a pretty big destination, maybe I'm on the local? The landscape begins changing rapidly. More sand, sometimes the sand seems to overtake the road. I'm also seeing a hell of alot of camels now. Strange animals. They don't seem like they'd be so comfortable to ride. The bus stopped a couple of times and what would be a Mcdonalds on our local greyhound. If you've ever wanted to know what it was like to feel like an alien from another planet, come to the Thar Desert. There is a general shortage of 6'2'' white guys wearing addidas sneakers and cutoffs around here.



I could set up a booth out here and charge admission given the attention I recieve. I'll admit at moments I'm thinking what the hell are you doing on a bus in the Thar Desert? All the while I'm reciveing a very healthy sunburn on the one arm. Windows don't really work. As we make our final approach into I formulate my plan. You see, the rickshaw drivers and camel safari guys are really aggresive as are most salesmen in India. I've slowly been sorting my strategy. I've read in my book the guys here are especially tenacious. I'm going to just blast through these guys and walk into to town. So, the bus stops. I stage dive from the bus into a throng of crazy camel dudes. They're all waving keys and pamphlets at me. You want camel safari, you need place to stay...etc. It was a blur. I raced back to the hatch in the back, found my backpack covered in some kind of red dust, and make my way towards the city. I actually have no idea where I'm going but, I just walk. Slowly the voices are quiet. I made it out of there. Now that I've refused a ride. I'm walking in the desert. I don't have a hotel booked or where the old fort I'm looking for is. A rickshaw passes. "You need place to stay, camel ride?" I jump in but, I did it my way. The ride to the 600 yr. old fort is actually only 5 minutes. They call Jaisalmer "The Golden City" All of the buildings are painted this tan honey color and as the lonely planet says, the city does seem to rise from the desert. It's amazing too, there are many small hotels within the old fort walls which sits in the middle of the city on a large hill. I opt to stay within the fort. It's so cool like staying inside a castle.



There are even canons still in place at various corners fo the complex. I walk through 4 large gates to arrive in the central fort area. Not knowing where to stay I just wander around looking for a guest house that strikes me. I walk into this one called Hotel Laxmi Niwas. There is a really large, hairy and, friendly indian man named Suresh sitting behind the desk. He let's out this unexplainable laugh and says welcome. I look at the rooms and decide on a rooftop suite, shared bathroom (metal stall on roof).



Very spartan but the view, incredible. Only 4 dollars a night! I relaxed for a bit, then out on the streets did some portraits. People are very easy here. I do have trouble shooting single portraits. Other folks always seem to creep into the pictures. I think this is kind of interesting though and don't discourage it. Makes for funny compositions. Later I found a nice rooftop cafe, had some fo the nicest indian so far. Back at the room watched the sunset, read awhile, sleep. Sorry for any typos, I'm on the clock and a lousy typist. Thanks for tuning in, your feedback is keeping me connected. I hope everyone's well.

dylan

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